This soap recipe is built on a foundation of high-quality, well-balanced oils that create a bar with excellent lather, a satisfying feel, and a structure that holds up through regular use.

• Coconut oil ensures a firm, long-lasting bar that works up to a rich, foamy lather.
• Olive oil smooths it out for a creamy, gentle wash.
• Castor oil brings a dense, luxurious texture, so the lather sticks around instead of rinsing away too quickly.
• Avocado oil rounds it out with extra conditioning, leaving skin feeling clean but never dry.

Because this formula is designed for performance and stability, it works as a versatile base for nearly any scent profile. Whether you’re working with something crisp and bright like fresh-cut grass, deep and smoky like campfire, or bold and rugged like leather and gunpowder, this soap carries and holds fragrance exceptionally well. It’s a reliable, adaptable base—giving you total control over the final product without worrying about the soap itself getting in the way.

1. Room Temperature Method – No need for extra steps or equipment. Just mix and go.
2. Balanced Performance – Lathers up easily, lasts well, and feels good on the skin.
3. Holds Scent Well – Whether it’s leather, gunpowder, whiskey, or campfire, this formula carries fragrance without fading too fast.
4. Customizable – Works as a base for adding colors, exfoliants, or any adjustments you want to test.
5. Straightforward Process – Designed for efficiency, so you can make great soap without overcomplicating it.

This is for people who know exactly what they want in a bar of soap—and are ready to make it happen. (you)

Digital scale (precision is key for soap making!) - We use this scale, but if you’re not looking for an industrial scale, a food scale will do fine

Thermometer (Etekcity Infrared Thermometer Laser Temperature Gun - $17… worth every penny)

Heat-resistant PLASTIC bucket for lye solution (NEVER to be used for food afterward) Polypropylene (PP#5): This type of plastic is known for its chemical resistance, including  lye, and its ability to withstand heat. Look for containers marked with "PP" or "5" on the bottom. There are some plastic containers that can be damaged by lye.

Plastic bucket for mixing oils and soap (we use the same buckets for everything)

Silicone utensils for stirring lye (NEVER EVER EVER use aluminum or aluminum blend with lye!)

Stainless steel immersion blender (dedicated to soapmaking only) 250W Handheld Mixer, 2 Speeds $20

Stainless steel skimmer (for fishing little bits out of the lye if necessary)

Small plastic (has to be #5 plastic) pitchering colors and fragrance

Wood soap mold (this one holds 5 lbs, which is perfect for this recipe)

Parchment paper and binder clips for lining molds

Safety equipment:

• LONG INDUSTRIAL GLOVES
• Full plastic face shield
• Eye protection (you could also just wear the plastic face shield without extra eye protection, but don’t come cryin’ to me… literally. Because you won’t have eyes if something happens)
• Respirator

Plenty of water (for neutralizing any lye spills)

This is where your soap comes to life. Follow these steps carefully, stay organized, and you’ll have a solid batch of bars that look great, hold scent well, and feel incredible to use.

1. Get Everything Ready

Soap-making moves fast once you start, so set up your workspace properly:

• Measure all ingredients with a digital scale. Precision matters.
• Line your wood molds with parchment paper, securing the parchment paper to the edge of the mold with binder clips so it doesn’t move around.
• Clear your workspace of anything unnecessary. Work on lye-resistant surfaces like melamine, stainless steel, glass, or tile. Avoid wood, aluminium, and stone — lye will damage them.
• Have your tools within arm’s reach so you’re not scrambling.
• Keep soap-making tools separate from food prep tools. Once used for soap, they stay soap tools. No exceptions.

2. Mixing the Lye Solution (Handle with Care)

This is the most critical part of the process—lye is powerful, and it demands respect. It will ABSOLUTELY BURN YOUR SKIN.

If you want to see a fun video on Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) and how it can absolutely melt your skin (and show your friends and family), The Soap Queen has a super demonstration. Or, you know, there’s always the Ed Norton / Brad Pitt version.

Put on protective gear: Gloves, safety goggles, and a high-efficiency N100 or P100-rated respirator.

Work in a well-ventilated area—a garage with the door open is best.

If you do it inside your home, like the kitchen or bathroom, it is critical that anyone else in the house be warned to get out of the house until the lye cools and stops steaming/fuming. They won’t be safe from the fumes floating throughout the house unless they’re wearing a respirator. That goes for pets too. Especially any animals in cages or terrariums. (Fish will be okay)

• Slowly add 3.19 oz of lye to 8.31 oz of filtered water (never the other way around). Remember: snow falls on the lake (lye crystals falling on your water).
• Stir gently with a silicone utensil (no metal) until completely dissolved.
• The mixture will heat up to 200°F. That’s normal. Stay clear.
• Set it aside to cool overnight in a place where it cannot be knocked over, accessed by pets, or mistaken for something else. It should be “room temperature.”

Remember: if your loved one drives in the garage and tips over your lye water with their car, and you run out to embrace them in your socked feet, you're all going to hop back in the car and go to the hospital! I could not be more serious about this.

3. Prepping the Oils (Room Temperature Method)

This method keeps things simple while still making high-quality soap.

• Melt only the coconut oil (35.05 oz)—it has a 76°F melt point, so it doesn’t take much heat.
• If using a microwave, heat in short bursts to avoid overheating. Cover loosely to prevent splatters.
• Once melted, combine with olive oil (14.02 oz), castor oil (6.57 oz), and avocado oil (10.96 oz) in a dedicated soap-making bucket.
• Let all oils come to room temperature before moving on.

4. Prep Your Additives Before Mixing

Once lye and oils are combined, you’ll have about 5 - 10 minutes before things set up. This moves fast. You’ll probably be surprised by how fast in your first batch or two.

Get everything ready:

• In your small plastic pitcher, mix 1.90 oz of fragrance oil with any mica or oxide colorants you’re using.
• Stir thoroughly to dissolve color evenly—a whisk or small stick blender works better than a spoon or a fork.

Have molds fully lined and within arm’s reach before moving forward.

5. The Critical Moment: Mixing Lye & Oils

This is where soap happens (aka SAPONIFICATION). Work efficiently.

We’re using what’s called “room temperature soapmaking,” which was a very novel concept when we were getting started.

• Use your electronic thermometer to ensure the lye water mix and the oils mix are roughly the same temperature.
• Slowly pour the cooled lye solution into the oil mixture.
• Begin blending with your immersion blender in short bursts to avoid air bubbles (when you put the blender in the liquid, give it a couple taps to get the air out of the bottom of the stick blender - if you don’t, you’ll get tons of bubbles. Be sure to do this EVERY TIME you put the stick blender in the mix. You do not want bubbles.
• Blend until you reach trace—the point where the mixture thickens enough that drizzles leave a visible trail. (want to see a video? sure you do!)
• Expect 5-15 minutes of blending to get there.

6. Adding Scent & Color

Once trace is reached:

• SLOWLY fold in the pre-mixed fragrance and colorant (pour a little, mix a little, pour a little, mix a little)
• Stir with a large spoon or spatula just until incorporated. Do not use the immersion blender—it will thicken too fast.
• Some fragrances accelerate trace, so be ready to move quickly.

7. Pouring the Soap Into the Mold

• Immediately pour the soap batter into the parchment-lined mold.
• Gently pick up the mold a little and whack it on the counter a few times to release air bubbles. (don’t spill the soap, but you really do want to whack those air bubbles free)
• Smooth or texture the top as desired. (fun swirls)
• Optional: Spray the top of the soap with rubbing alcohol to avoid “ashing” (which is harmless, but creates an ashy look on the top)

8. Insulating, Unmolding & Cutting

• Cover the mold with some cardboard or a piece of plywood.
• Wrap with towels or blankets to insulate and maintain heat. It’s kind of cute to tuck your new soap loaves in for the night.
• After 24 hours, remove the soap from the mold.
• Let the soap harden another 24 hours before cutting into bars.
• Cut into 4.5 oz bars and place them on a drying rack in a well-ventilated space.

You can use a regular ol’ knife (but it will now be a soap-only knife), a soap cutting tool, or a fancy wire soap cutter if you’re going pro (if you think a $200 soap cutter is expensive, consider that ours were >$400.

9. Curing & Testing

• Let bars cure for 4-6 weeks before use.
• If you want to check your PH levels, you can either get some test strips, or do what we in the business call “the 9-volt battery test”: Stick your tongue on the bar. Yep, just kind of lick it. If it feels like you just stuck your tongue on the top of a 9-volt battery, your bars aren’t safe to use. (this is also known as the “zap test”)
• Once cured, your soap is ready to use.

Troubleshooting & Pro Tips

• Soap hardens too fast (seizing)? Some fragrance oils cause this. If it happens, get it into the mold quickly.
• Soap won’t trace? Double-check your lye measurements.
• Separation in the mold? Room temperature soaping helps prevent this, but if it happens, you may need to rebatch.

This process is straightforward, efficient, and reliable, giving you soap that looks, smells, and feels exactly how you want it. Every batch is a chance to fine-tune and experiment. Enjoy the process!

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